KAIA - Getaria
Filed under: Food in Spain
Kaia was to be the last stop on our gastronomic tour. The out of the ordinary experience at Mugaritz had induced a craving for simple, uncomplicated, regional fare. So rather than being guided by the mighty Michelin we put our faith in the hotel concierge who enthusiastically recommends Kaia – a modest establishment renowned for its fish and seafood situated in a small fishing village named Getaria about an hour by winding coastal road from San Sebastian. A white knuckle ride later and we’re parking the car by the working harbour, climbing a hill and being seduced by fish being grilled over hot charcoals.
Soon after being seated my eyes alight upon a man guzzling down what appear to be little worms. On closer inspection they’re the famous Elvers (baby eels), a Basque speciality and as an intrepid eater something I am determined to try. They arrive in a small clay pot infused with a pungent garlic sauce. I can only assume the taste of the elvers is mild yet the texture is truly distinctive and unique - they have a silky consistency on the tongue and float down the throat with ease. The fish soup elicits equally rapturous applause from my fellow diners who allow me a few mouthfuls of their heavenly broth.
It is the wild turbot, grilled outside over charcoal, for which this restaurant is famed. The waitress proudly shows us the luscious creature sprawled across a silver platter. There is nothing complicated about the preparation, however the freshness and quality of the fish straight from the ocean is almost indescribable in its goodness. We wash it down with some Txakoli, a popular Basque wine which is actually produced in Getaria. It is light and zippy, and has slightly effervescent quality which is ideally matched to the delicate nature of the fish.
Despite the simplicity of the meal it is equally as enjoyable as anything we’d sampled over the last couple of evenings. This is made even sweeter by virtue of the fact that we feel like we have discovered a hidden gem, not yet overrun with tourists. The only other surprising discovery we uncover is when I casually glance at the check and find that the unassuming baby eels cost a mighty 80 Euros. Worth every cent.
5 Comments so far
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The Turbot and Txakoli was a perfect food/wine combination. It’s strange that Txakoli seems almost unheard of outside of Spain, it’s great for with simple seafood.
Comment by andrew 03.13.06 @ 2:40 pmNot sure I’m afraid, is there a marked difference between the two?
Comment by GastroChick 03.14.06 @ 10:20 amLeave a comment
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Definately something to be said for finding restaurants off the beaten track, a satisfaction you’ll never get at all the big names.
Comment by Damo 03.13.06 @ 12:07 pm